
The first problem was trying to decide if I needed to disconnect all of the cables and remove the circuit board from the chassis in order to make the repair. Luckily, the cabling was long enough to allow the board to be tiled up to give me access to the bottom without completely removing it from the chassis. The pins on the IC's have a fairly tight pitch and there are several tiny surface mount components nearby, but I taped over them, and the desoldering iron worked perfectly to remove the old solder. Once each pin was loose, I had no problem removing the IC's from the top side.
A strong spring clamp holds the IC to the large aluminum heat sink. Getting the clamp secured in the tight work space around the IC's was a challenge. After that was done, I tilted the board up again and soldered each pin with the help of a large magnifying glass. The solder job isn't real pretty, but I made sure that each pin was secure and there were no solder bridges. I polished the lenses, put everything back together, crossed my fingers, and turned on the power. After setting the convergence back to the factory default, the picture was as good as new. It took me about 3 hours and $40 for part and supplies.
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